Pilgrim Passport stamps on the Italian Via Francigena

The pilgrim passport stamp is useful in authenticating your journey, demonstrating your validity as a pilgrim and for giving credence to the pilgrim passport when using it to obtain discounts for accommodation or food. The official guides all say you will need a pilgrim passport stamp for every one of the last 6 stages on the 100km between Montefiascone and Rome in order to obtain your Testimonium at St Peter's Basilica. However, don't stress this, as when I arrived, the young men just gave me a Testimonium without asking to see the Credenziale/Passport.

When I was planning my journey and on the Via for the first 27 stages, I could not find anything helpful on the internet, which is why I'm publishing this here.

This is a list of places where I was able to find pilgrim passport stamps (or know that they are available). It is generally possible to obtain pilgrim passport stamps from a tourist information office, but bear in mind that these are often closed in the evening (when pilgrims are arriving), on weekends and for lunch in the middle of the day. Some of the tourist offices, Via information points, commune and hostals require you to provide name, address, country of origin and start of pilgrimage etc.

Where there is no tourist office, sometimes bars will have them, but this is not always the case, and only rarely (despite always investigating) did I find one in a church or cathedral, somewhat surprisingly, given the nature of the route as a pilgrimage. However, the local Commune, Municipio or local government office of even the smallest towns on the route will almost certainly have a pilgrim passport stamp, although you may find it difficult to locate the appropriate office. I found that the commune often had a security guard who would point you in the right direction. Again, opening hours can be inconvenient for the pilgrim leaving early in the morning and arriving at lunchtime. Most pilgrim hostels and some other types of B and B accommodation geared specifically to the pilgrim will have a pilgrim passport stamp. And some pilgrim refreshment stops have pilgrim passport stamps too.

My general advice is: get them where you can, don't rely on being able to get them at the end of your day.

You will find references to my (often unrewarded) search for a pilgrim passport stamp throughout the daily entries, but I have attempted to bring them all together here for ease of reference. Where it says “nothing” I hadn't yet learnt about the commune/municipio, so you will probably be lucky there. Feel free to add to this information in the comments section below.

Stage 1 – St Bernard to Echevennoz. At the Monastery at the pass. Tourist office at Etroubles (1km before end of stage). The hostal at Echevennoz did not have one in 2020.

Stage 2 - Echevennoz to Aosta. Cathedral of Aosta (in a side room off to the right; ask a cleric)

Stage 3a – Aosta to Nus. Nothing.

Stage 3b – Nus to Chatillon. Nothing.

Stage 4 – Chatillon to Verres. Nothing.

Stage 5 – Verres to Pont San Martin. Bard, Self-service stamp tucked away on ledge under 2^nd archway going up the hill.

Stage 6 – Pont San Martin to Ivrea. Pilgrim information booth, Corso Botta, 3, Ivrea. Also available at Ivrea tourist office in central piazza.

Stage 7 – Ivrea to Viverone. Bollengo, cafe with pilgrim sign outside on Via.

Stage 8 – Viverone to Santhiá. Portico Cafe, Cavaglia (this is also a pilgrim BnB). Santhiá in cafe opposite railway station, also a hotel.

Stage 9 – Santhia to Vercelli. Pilgrim hostal at Vercelli (extremely friendly and welcoming).

Stage 10 – Vercelli to Robbio. Nothing.

Stage 11 – Robbio to Mortara. Nicorvo, tiny chapel in the town, on the Via. Self-service stamp.

Stage 12 – Mortara to Garlasco. At the Mortara pilgrim hostal, which requires a short detour as you leave the town.

Stage 13a – Garlasco to Villanova. Nothing.

Stage 13b – Villanova to Pavia. BnB Residenza i Mille, Via dei Mille 117, Pavia. ( Fab pilgrim-focussed hostal just a few 100m from the covered bridge.)

Stage 14 – Pavia to Santa Cristina e Bissone. The church in S Cristina on the Via Veneto. (Ask a cleric).

Stage 15 – Santa Cristina e Bissone to Oria Litta. Nothing.

Stage 16 – Oria Litta to Piacenza. In Piacenza, Il Mulino degli Orti, Via Colombo 120. The Ferryman should also have one, unless he's in a grump.

Stage 17 – Piacenza to Fiorenzuola. In the Parrochia, in the building to the right of the Duomo (grudgingly).

Stage 18 – Fiorenzuola to Fidenza. Tourist office opposite Duomo (get your free parmesan cheese sample here!)

Stage 19a – Fidenza to Medesano. Nothing.

Stage 19b/20a – Medesano to Bardone. Nothing.

Stage 20b/21a – Bardone to Berceto. Outside Cassio on the Berceto side, at the hostal on the Via.

Stage 21b/22a – Berceto to Previdé. At Passo della Cisa, cafe almost at the top of the pass. At Previdé, Eremo Gioiso, also accommodation and pilgrim oasis.

Stage 22b - Previdé to Pontremoli. Nothing.

Stage 23 – Fillatierra to Aulla. Tourist office in castle as you enter the town.

Stage 24/25b – Aulla to Sarzana. Nothing.

Stage 25b - Sarzana to Carrera Avenza. At ticket office for Luni amphitheatre (not at Roman ruins).

Stage 26b – Pietrasanta to Camaiore. Camaiore Commune on the main square.

Stage 27 – Camaiore to Lucca. Hostal at Valpromaro (also has fab toilets!). No luck in Lucca.

Stage 28 – Lucca to Altopascio. Altopascio Municipio (unfeasibly large stamp!)

Stage 29a – Altopascio to Fucecchio. Hospitalita Diffusa on main square (ditto unfeasibly large!)

Stage 29b – Fuccechio to San Miniato. San Miniato tourist office.

Stage 30 – San Miniato to Gambassi Terme. Hause Megghi, Via del Porcello, 16 (2km outside town, but very welcoming and helpful hosts, and cheap and cheerful accommodation).

Stage 31 – Gambassi Terme to San Gimignano. San Gimignano tourist office next to Duomo.

Stage 32a – San Gimignano to Il Pietreto. Nothing.

Stage 32b – Il Pietreto to Monteriggioni. Monteriggioni tourist office on main square.

Stage 33 – Monteriggioni to Siena. Attilo Camere (Airbnb just behind Il Campo).

Stage 34a – Siena to Monteroni. Nothing.

Stage 34b/35a – Ponte a Tressa to Buonconvento. Buonconvento Commune (office at top of stairs on first floor).

Stage 35b – Buonconvento to San Quirico. Tourist office opposite San Quirico museum.

Stage 36a – San Quirico to Gallina. Agriturismo Passalacqua on the Via (worth a stay). Ring the bell on the out building if no one around.

Stage 36b – Gallina to Radicofani. Nothing.

Stage 37 – Radicofani to Centeno. E-bike oasis on the Via some way outside Radicofani has a self-service stamp.

Stage 38 – Acquapendente to Bolsena. Acquapendente Cafe Dolci Passi on via Roma. Bolsena tourist office.

Stage 39 – Bolsena to Montefiascone. Montefiascone tourist office in main square of walled city (open on Sundays).

Stage 40 – Montefiascone to Viterbo. Self-service stamp at pilgrim information point opposite Post Office.

Stage 41 – Viterbo to Vetralla. Self-service stamp on Via at gate to “Barbara's Place” a few kilometres outside Vetralla.

Stage 42 – Vetralla to Sutri. Sutri Commune.

Stage 43 – Sutri to Campagnano di Roma. Tabbacheria Tina and Lamberto (aka Vizi e Virtu), just inside Porta Romana at southern end of main street.

Stage 44 – Campagnano di Roma to La Storta. Bar della Piazzetta, just round the corner from the railway station in La Storta.

Stage 45 – La Storta to Roma. In the cloakroom to the right of the steps to the Basilica of San Pietro. Stamp and Testimonium.

 

 

Tips on preparing and planning for the Via Francigena in Italy as far as Rome.

I knew I wouldn't be able to carry all my gear, and I didn't really want to stay in pilgrim hostels, so I hatched the idea of using public transport, and having a base in one place for a few days before moving on to the next one. For the most part, this worked well, what stymied it in reality were the transport strikes which severely threw a spanner in the works during my longest period of walking in May/June 2022, and during April 2023. I had to use taxis, book new hotels at the last minute, and spend more time than I had bargained for at the end of each day planning how to avoid the impact of the strike while keeping to plan. Not to mention much more money. If you want to use this model, you can check up on planned strikes on the website: https://www.commissionegaranziasciopero.it/calendario-scioperi and for a really useful set of tips on the mercurial nature of Italian strikes, this page: https://italybeyondtheobvious.com/travelers-guide-strikes-italy/

However, I enjoyed the freedom this model gave me to do a bunch of stages in any order, have the food I wanted, and be able to have available more clothing for a range of weather, particularly useful in spring and autumn. Certainly for the stages from St Bernard to Fidenza, using trains get to the start and from the end of each day's walk is perfectly possible. After that there were bare patches:

• Using public transport becomes impossible between Fidenza and Pontremoli (stages 19-22) where the route crosses the Apennines (I ended up spending a lot on a taxi).

• From Pontremoli to Lucca (stages 23-27) trains and buses can be used,

• From Lucca to Siena (stages 28-33) there is nothing,

• From Siena to Buonconvento (stages 34-35a) there are trains, and

• Between Buonconvento and La Storta (stages 35b-44) it's Cotral Bus, which has some direct buses and several indirect ones, but has the worst app for live travel.

• There's a train between La Storta and St Peter's in Rome.

I experimented with using a baggage transfer company for some of the stages between Camaiore and Siena (stages 27-33) in October 2022, and it was a good model, not without problems but, with some careful planning, and sufficient budget I think this would be my preferred option were I ever to do it again. However, unless you book your trip through a tour operator, I believe it may be difficult to find a transfer company north of Lucca (the first 27 stages). I used Bags Free (https://bags-free.com/francigena-luggage-transport/) from Lucca onwards, who were excellent, charge €25 per stage, and will pick up from Airbnbs (not all of them will), provided there is someone there between specified times to hand over or receive the bag (and not all Airbnb hosts can). The driver will ring ahead, though, so this gives a little more scope.

One psychological drawback to the public transport model is the need to catch the relevant bus or train; sometimes they only run a few times a day or there are big gaps (especially at lunchtime) in the timetable. Building in enough time to shower, clean my boots, do my washing, eat some dinner and get enough sleep sometimes drove the timing of the return journey to base. I found that this made me walk more briskly and to linger less than perhaps my surroundings warranted, and it would sometimes have been nicer just to take my time.

Accommodation

I did not stay in the pilgrim hostels, so I have very little information to pass on other than that gleaned from other pilgrims. I heard reports of bed bugs, and sometimes reluctance to open up early in the season. Mostly, however, people were satisfied. I would recommend the one in Vercelli (stage 9), which I have visited – so friendly that they plucked me off the street and force fed me biscuits and anything else I could have wanted, and in a lovely cool old building. And apparently the nuns in Siena are super welcoming and caring.

I used Airbnb and booking.com, and was always comfortable. I'd particularly recommend two: Agriturismo Passalacqua at Gallo halfway along the very long and grueling stage 36, with a fantastic host and amazing home-produced food and the best view of any breakfast. Eremo Gioioso, in a magical hamlet near Previdè on Stage 22 (which I did from Berceto). It is now no longer a B and B, as it was when I passed through and spent a few magical days there, but it is a special place and still pilgrim friendly.

When booking I'd consider carefully the proximity to the Via, and/or public transport stops if using my model, air conditioning if walking between May and October, and laundry facilities at or nearby.

Planning

The planning is key. It took me several months of research and planning, and involved a lot of careful logistical thinking, and even for a careful planner there were mistakes with dates, days and locations, requiring some flexibility and thinking on my feet, neither of which are necessarily comfortable for me. And this was a valuable part of the experience, not only because it increased my capacity for both, but also because sometimes the issues that cropped up led to serendipitous encounters and acts of kindness from strangers. Nevertheless, the amount of planning involved was prodigious and consuming; and the source of some irritation for those around me, I'm sure, as I (and they) lived through it.

Physical preparation

My physical preparation was also considerable, and necessary, and I probably walked at least twice, if not three times as far as the actual length of the Via Francigena between Saint Bernard and Rome in the course of the three years. Having that level of fitness at the start of each stint on the Via did enable me to enjoy the journey and to focus on the experience. Interestingly, the training took on almost greater importance than the actual walking on the Via, even though it was all aimed at being able to do the walking once in Italy. I used an app and became a bit obsessed about my speed; at one point I even had a spreadsheet, although that was thankfully short-lived.

My preparation started at least four months before I started, and focused on building both fitness and stamina. For the first month I tried to walk 10-15km, with a full pack, at least 3 times, but mostly 4 a week, increasing the distance through the month and ending the month with 4 back-to-back walks of the maximum distance. The next month I bumped up to 15-20km, the third, 18-25km and for the final month 25-30 km, ending each month with back-to-backs of the maximum distance. I then rested from walking, but did short runs and swam for two weeks before departure. During the four months I also supplemented the walking with occasional short (3km) runs and (1km) swims.

This meant I was completely physically comfortable at the end of the longer stages, and had the mental and physical stamina to keep going, and carry sufficient water in the very hot weather. Crucially, I planned in several rest days while on the Via, about one every 4 days or so, which I used for sightseeing and/or transfer from base to base. These were essential. For the longest stretch between Ivrea and Camaiore, I did not have enough rest days and believe this contributed to the foot injury which prevented me from reaching Lucca as I had planned. For the subsequent two stints I was more generous with the rest days and had no further injury problems.

In terms of terrain to prepare for, my local reservoir at Tal y Bont offered a multitude of forest tracks, with some steepish uphill sections, some short tarmac stretches and a few unsurfaced narrow footpaths. This was perfect variety and nicely mimicked the actual terrain of the Via. There is no need to subject yourself to long-distance mountain treks, as there are only a few mountain stages on the Via. Those in the Alps are rocky mountain paths, but mostly downhill, while those in the Apennines are up and down and rocky, but there are only 3 of these stages (or four, depending how you choose to break it up). If you are as fit as I was, they should be challenging but not overwhelming.

Equipment

Your boots are your best friends. Don't stint on these, and, if possible, use a proper fitting service such as Whalley Warm and Dry and then train in them for the four months suggested above. Always make cleaning them at the end of each day the one thing you always, always do.

Next is your rucksack. I used an Osprey Tempest 30 litre rucksack, with waterproof cover, which was perfect and enabled me to do a few days' walking carrying a few days' underwear and wash things, as well as a water bladder. Get the smallest and lightest pack you can possibly manage. Some stages are quite demanding enough without having to carry a massive weight on your back. I also had an airline locker size suitcase when using the public transport model.

I trained and walked with poles. They take the weight off your knees and feet and allow you to walk further and more comfortably as well as using the upper body to propel you. Fantastic for going up and down hills as well.

By the fourth stint, I had my pack and additional luggage down to the optimum. Four complete changes of t-shirt and underwear. 2 pairs boot socks, 1 shirt, 1 fleecy, two pairs of convertible trousers, sandals for the evening, a pair of running shorts and skimpy top for sleeping/modesty en route to the bathroom, airline size toiletries, small first aid kit, waterproofs, baseball cap and warm hat and gloves. My rule of thumb is; if I want to take it “just in case” it's not necessary. Ensure you have used all your clothing several times before leaving.

Essential are sun cream and jungle formula insect repellent if you are mosquito feast material. I'd also carry a really good head torch and also essential is a phone battery recharge pack like Anker. If based outside mainland Europe you'll also need an appropriate adapter for your electricals. (Remember to take enough medication and copies of your passport (carrying photo id is a legal requirement), prescriptions (may be required at Customs) and insurance emergency numbers.) I always walk with a compass, and, for women, plenty of biodegradable tissues and a few biodegradable wet wipes, for the outdoor toilet stops. If you can set up a Euro account and carry a card for it, your currency issues are immediately addressed. I used Wise. You will need a little cash for rural cafes, and farmers' markets, although most now allow contactless payment.

In terms of waterproofs, obviously Goretex. I did need mine on a few occasions, but, if you prefer, a good alternative is a small lightweight umbrella. Walking, even in Goretex, in waterproofs in warm weather rain can be very sweaty, and ultimately pointless.

Beyond that, it's your choice, but the rule is: the less the better.

Laundry

This became a bit of a necessary obsession. 4 changes of t-shirt and underwear allows for one set to walk in, one to change into at the end of the day (and to wear the next day) and a little latitude for washing and drying if needed if there's no laundry service at the end of the day. Mostly stuff will dry overnight, depending on the weather and material it's made from (so think about that too), and carrying partly-dried laundry in a pvc zip bag or dry bag or even a freezer bag, to dry overnight the next day can be done, but will increase the weight. You can also dry stuff by hanging it from your rucksack if you can secure it and the weather allows.

Many of the towns along the Via have self-service laundrettes which are cheap, have built-in detergent and are efficient – but will require a lot of coins. Not all towns have them though, Radicofani being one example. Some also have laundries which will do a quick wash and dry service in 24 hours, if you have the time. Factor this in to your planning, as well as the availability of washing machine/laundry service in self-catering/hotels.

Water

Never stint. Proper hydration keeps your muscles loose and reduces fatigue. Get used to carrying enough for the whole day, and train yourself to drink some about every 1km/15mins; this training will help you gauge how much you need for each stage. There are some stages where there is no water available along the way, but many where there is. Use a water bladder so you don't have to keep stopping. Plan your water for the day!

When to walk

Avoid July and August except in the Alps. It is too hot, the risaio is infested with mosquitos and you will be giving your body unnecessary stress (unless you come from a similar climate). Most pilgrims walk in late September and October, and those were certainly the best temperatures of my four stints. I also walked in Tuscany and Lazio in April and was lucky that there was little rain, and in 2022 hit a massive and unexpected heatwave between Ivrea and Camaiore, 35 degrees C in the shade, with no respite at night. I'd suggest mid-April to mid-May if you want to do earlier in the year. The limiting factor to this is that the St Bernard Pass will normally be deep in snow until early June. Consider doing stages 1-6 in a short stint during the warmer months, leaving you free to do the rest in spring or autumn. I did, however, meet a Danish couple who had dragged their bikes through the snow on the Pass in May...

Public Transport

Aside from the strikes and gaps in coverage, public transport in Italy is brilliant and reasonably cheap. I used the Trenitalia app, and applied, via the website, for my free foreigner's Senior Carta Freccia once I'd set up the app. This automatically registered on the app and gave me discounts when I bought tickets on the app. The app is available in English and the live chat team also speak English if you have any problems.

For buses in Tuscany and on Cotral buses I used the Tabnet app, which is only in Italian and can be tricky to set up, but is fabulous if you can do so. You just buy a ticket for your journey beforehand, and only activate it (slightly different ways to do so for Autolinee Toscane and Cotral) when you get on the bus. You then have a QR code to show any inspectors.

It's not always possible to buy tickets on the bus. If you don't want to go down the app route, most tobacconists sell bunches of bus tickets, if you can navigate the language issues in getting the right ones! These then have to be punched once you get on board.

As mentioned above, the Cotral app, while tempting, is horrendous and offers one of the worst user experiences I've ever encountered on any app or website. If you want live bus information or timetable information, use the website. The “f” numbers refer to the bus stop number, and this is such a stupid system, making it really time-consuming to identify the stop you need when planning your journey. It took me several hours of research to get comfortable with how to work with this. I expect if you are comfortable with Facebook and Twitter it might be easier, but don't use Google maps as they use data from Cotral which gives misleading information. Example: I wanted to travel from Sutri to Vetralla on a Sunday morning to complete stage 42. Using the Cotral and Google maps journey planners told me that there was only one direct bus a day, at 07.00. In fact there is no bus at 07.00, but there is a frequent bus service all day, starting at 08.30. Go figure.

Via Francigena apps and maps

The official app is fairly good, although hideously out of date in some places. Even the official website does not contain up to date information – see the daily entries for places where this occurs, notably stage 5, stage 35, stage 41 and stage 43. The guide book I used was Terre di Mezzo 2017 edition (there is a newer edition) and I also had the Terre di Mezzo app which was useful for finding the alternative route on stage 41. For my initial planning and familiarisation, I bought two road maps of Italy and drew in the Via as best I could to give me some idea of the geography. I also had 1:50,000 Global Map paper maps of the route through Tuscany and Lazio (ISBN 9 788833 033020 and 9 788833 030463 respectively). These were useful for identifying possible accommodation and transport options outside what was shown on the guide book maps and apps. They were also a back up system in case of battery failure or signal loss on the 'phone. I also had the Maps.me app and Google map app for extra navigational back up. I used all of them.

Signage along the route

Official pilgrim signs for stages 1-6, in the Aosta valley are sometimes missing at critical points, so a map is useful here. This is because it is a popular hiking area and most of the Via follows a clearly signposted hiking route. Once you hit the Piedmont the signs are plentiful, and this is pretty much the case to Rome, with a few bad patches, all of which are mentioned in my daily entries. Proceed with care, checking the app and map where there is any confusion and just taking a few steps further on to look for some kind of indication. These can be the yellow and black Sigeric pilgrim icon, red and white stripes, VF painted on stone, post or railing, a simple red arrow and the red and white stickers. You get used to picking them up – just look up, down and all around. Sometimes there is just the blue and white bicycle sticker, but be careful! The cycle route is not always the same as the footpath.

 

 

Reflections on my pilgrimage

Two months after completing the journey, and having had time and space to digest the whole experience, some reflections. Since one of the aims of writing this blog was to help future pilgrims, I've prepared this and an accompanying post with tips on what to think about in planning.

Thinking about the reasons why I took this on in the first place: I watched a documentary about Z-list celebrities doing a few stages, and thought it looked amazing; a journey on foot through lesser-known parts of medieval Italy along an ancient way, and an opportunity to acquaint myself with Italy, which I barely knew. For a keen walker, it offered an interesting and different kind of challenge; I'd barely done any long-distance path walking before (a few days along Offa's Dyke path), and wasn't even sure if I'd have the resilience to keep going. Might doing it for charity keep me going? There were so many unknowns; the language, the culture, the accommodation, the transport, my fitness, the equipment needed.

Racking up the kilometres in the UK, gradually building up my mental and physical stamina increasingly absorbed my focus. At the start, my mental stamina was not great; aged 58 I simply didn't believe that I could walk more than about 9 miles or 14km. Now, aged 61, that's a stroll in the park for me, and at the end of my training in spring 2022, I was managing nearly 30km/18 miles, several times a week. That's a level of fitness and a range that was unimaginable in 2019, and even if now I certainly wouldn't undertake that sort of distance lightly, at least I know I have the capability within me. Also, the notion of walking long distances, back-to-back over several days seemed impossible then, but now is normal, even if I have learnt to take a rest day after 4 days' solid walking. So, I've learnt a great deal about how my body works, what it will tolerate, and how much I can push it, even at my advanced age.

I undertook to raise £1004, a pound for every kilometre, which I have done, but I did not anticipate that it would probably cost me about 4 times that in travel, accommodation, food and other expenses by the time I'd finished. Undoubtedly it would have been cheaper if I had stayed in pilgrim hostels and were not vegetarian.

What about the spiritual side? This was really low on my agenda at the start, and I can report no Damascene moments. I am solitary and independent by nature, so the time alone with my thoughts was valuable, and allowed me to experiment with focusing on different sensory inputs; sounds, smells, colours, light. Walking does induce a kind of trance state, and there is definitely something compelling about constantly moving forward, which others describe as the energy of the path, but I feel as a more physical, or psychological, perhaps even atavistic, compulsion to keep on moving, nomadically. The only time I felt anything close to an altered state of consciousness other than my usual walking trance, was in the Apennines, in those magical, secret, wooded hills and valleys, on winding, sun-dappled paths, rising and falling, crossing streams and passing through tiny tree-ringed villages with terraced vineyards and olive groves, glimpsing other villages peeping out of the trees on the other side of the valley and hearing other bells ring out the hours. There was a deep sense of peace and benign elemental power there. At the end of the journey, in St Peter's Basilica in Rome, you might have expected me to feel something religious, but all I felt was some slight irritation at the perfunctory welcome for a weary pilgrim, a swirling jet of conflicting emotions, and some considerable awe at the overwhelming grandeur of the place.

My studies of religions have given me an understanding of what people generally mean when talking about faith and belief, even though I cannot myself identify such a space within me needing filling in what might be deemed a religious way, but that understanding has not changed or become more personal as a result of my pilgrimage. Interestingly, I am quite comfortable with the notion of my journey as a pilgrimage, because of the link which became gradually more pertinent as it progressed with the stories of those in whose memory I was undertaking the fundraising component, particularly with the deaths of three of them which occurred during the time I was walking. There were a few occasions when I wanted to throw in the towel, but it was certainly these people's stories which kept me on the path, and I suppose having a reason for completing a journey from A to B of this sort does make it a pilgrimage.

The solitude did induce a tendency to voice my thoughts out loud, while walking, however, and to talk to my equipment, the wildlife I encountered and sometimes those responsible for providing (or more accurately not providing) accurate signage or comfortable walking space; gravel paths, unnecessary detours, and long stretches along busy roads. Sometimes there was a lot of swearing, sometimes even tears.

I feel very strongly about the poor provision of toilet facilities for women on some of the stages, notably in the risaio, where squatting in a mosquito-filled ditch within sight of a farm or field worker was often the only option. If I ever win the Euro-millions lottery, a specific donation to remedy that would be high on the list. It is possible to become obsessed with finding a clean loo, but when you are drinking as much water as you need to drink in very hot conditions, it is essential. This may help to explain the inclusion of more information on unexpected loos than some readers may need in my daily musings.

In terms of my learning about Italy, its people, history, language, customs and food, I certainly feel very well acquainted now. I am even on fairly good speaking terms with it, having learnt enough Italian to hold an interesting conversation for an hour or so, and exchanged information and views with many interesting and diverse people along the way. The linguistic experience has been lovely. The great warmth and kindness of pretty much every Italian I met on the way has left a lasting and affectionate impression of the country, and I was fortunate to meet one or two exceptionally special people, who I will always remember. I have seen some of the great architecture (Siena and Rome on the Via, Milan in passing through) of the country and enjoyed a sense of the history of the many peoples whose architecture across so much time is so visible all along the Via. I have also passed through, and sometimes been able to spend a brief day or two in some fabulous, lesser-known hamlets and settlements, and to experience some of the quotidian life outside the major tourist spots. I certainly have a list of off-the-beaten-track spots I would happily revisit to spend more time in.

I'm happy feeding myself and travelling in Italy, I have learnt some of the noises and gestures which are normal there, but strange to foreigners, and I know the (sometimes hugely important) difference between a cornetto and a cornuto, between canelo and canolli.

Although it's not easy to define all of the many ways in which the experience has changed, enriched and educated me, it was both challenging and rewarding. I don't regret having done it for a moment. I am a more resilient, calmer and more confident person than I was before I began. Readjusting to life after the Via has been interesting; there is no goal, nothing to plan, and no need to keep moving. So while the not having is a kind of relief, there's also a space for other less exciting things such as spending time at home and walking when and where and for how far I feel like. The compulsion to move and achieve which has driven me along the Via over the past three years is no longer there, but I do not feel a need to replace it.

People keep asking me what I will do next. The answer is there isn't anything I have in mind, so please don't ask, and certainly don't suggest anything! Would I do it again? No, although I would do parts of it, but not for a while. Would I recommend it to anyone? If you are prepared to put in the hours of preparation and planning, certainly and without reservation – your life will be the richer for it.

Finally, it was lovely having the companionship of you, the reader, along the way, being conscious of your interest during the day and gathering observations and incidents to share with you as I walked. Thank you.

 

 

What's WG again?

WG stands for "winding gear" a catch-all term for any machinery, especially if rusty and abandoned, which my brother (semi-fictionalised into "The Bro") prefers to stunning panoramas.  During my travels, several WG enthusiasts have joined the blog reading community, and demanded WG photos.  You will see references to it throughout the blog.  Apologies to those of you for whom WG is of no interest!

Stage 45: La Storta to Rome. The last post? Not quite. Part 3.

Then utter dismay, after 22km, at seeing long queues snaking back and forth to the Basilica, where I knew I could get my Testimonium. Luckily, however, pilgrims get fast tracked; speak to the official on the disabled entrance. Once through security, another official to speak to, round the corner and up the side of the Square, another barrier to be undone, and into a long hall, where 4 young men were doing cloakroom attendant duty, but one of them gave me my last stamp and the Testimonium.  

And that was it. No fanfares, no handshake, no priestly benediction with censor and holy water, and certainly no invitation to a papal audience (unlike the Z-listers in the documentary who got a private session). It was very matter of fact and a tad deflating. Then into the stunning Basilica (no photos can really do it justice) and a good long gawp (and a few tears) before photos with passport and Testimonium, and a good feed at the first restaurant I came to. And a massive storm.

And all day a full gamut of emotions: apprehension/excitement, relief/disappointment, determination/apathy, tearfulness/joy, elation/deflation, anticlimax and a bit of pride too. Very little spiritual, although I've certainly been inhabiting a clear space, as entering the frenzy of Rome has highlighted. It's going to take a while to work through all of that.

But ultimately, the achievement stands, the journey has run its course, and I have been profoundly affected by it. I'll write another set of posts reflecting on all of that once today has been digested.

Finally, I want to remember here the important people who inspired this: Joan, Meg, Joyce, Mary, Paul, Allan and Linda. This was for them and everyone like them. In a sense they've been on the journey too, and they should be remembered.  

If you have also enjoyed being on the journey, thanks for your company, which has been much appreciated (and please donate if you can).

Stage 45: La Storta to Rome. The last post? Not quite. Part 2.

The inevitable climb after that taking me through increasingly busy suburbs before Monte Mario park (wild boar with swine fever, no picnics, no rubbish - lots of evidence of both) 

afforded the first view of my ultimate destination.  

Buoyed by that and a sourdough sandwich, I set off on the last 5km, cursing whoever thought it was inspired to use big irregular lumps of stone on a footpath descending from park to main road, and at last onto the final 2km or so of straight noisy road, 

so long they needed to give it three names, leading directly to Bernini's colonnade, which finally appeared at about midday.

Stage 45: La Storta to Rome. The last post? Not quite. Part 1.

I made it to St Peter's!  

On the one hand, so easy to sum it up in six words, on the other, a day concluding four years of planning, training and doing the thing; so much coming together at one time in one place.

The day started with a very early train back to La Storta, trying to avoid both the strike at 08.30, and the rain forecast for the afternoon. I felt very emotional, partly because of a stampede of night mustangs, and partly because I was aware that this was the final stage. Some cheering words from home perked me up, as I found a stamp in the first cafe after the station, and set off along rush hour Via Cassia, 

mendaciously described as a 3km stretch, Strava giving that the lie at 5km. It's all pavement (US sidewalk), thankfully, apart from a very short stretch and not uphill.

Then a long break from modern Roman traffic, through a slightly muddy, wet, weed-lined path after heavy overnight rain, along a mainly flat valley in La Insugherata.