Tips on preparing and planning for the Via Francigena in Italy as far as Rome.
I knew I wouldn't be able to carry all my gear, and I didn't really want to stay in pilgrim hostels, so I hatched the idea of using public transport, and having a base in one place for a few days before moving on to the next one. For the most part, this worked well, what stymied it in reality were the transport strikes which severely threw a spanner in the works during my longest period of walking in May/June 2022, and during April 2023. I had to use taxis, book new hotels at the last minute, and spend more time than I had bargained for at the end of each day planning how to avoid the impact of the strike while keeping to plan. Not to mention much more money. If you want to use this model, you can check up on planned strikes on the website: https://www.commissionegaranziasciopero.it/calendario-scioperi and for a really useful set of tips on the mercurial nature of Italian strikes, this page: https://italybeyondtheobvious.com/travelers-guide-strikes-italy/
However, I enjoyed the freedom this model gave me to do a bunch of stages in any order, have the food I wanted, and be able to have available more clothing for a range of weather, particularly useful in spring and autumn. Certainly for the stages from St Bernard to Fidenza, using trains get to the start and from the end of each day's walk is perfectly possible. After that there were bare patches:
Using public transport becomes impossible between Fidenza and Pontremoli (stages 19-22) where the route crosses the Apennines (I ended up spending a lot on a taxi).
From Pontremoli to Lucca (stages 23-27) trains and buses can be used,
From Lucca to Siena (stages 28-33) there is nothing,
From Siena to Buonconvento (stages 34-35a) there are trains, and
Between Buonconvento and La Storta (stages 35b-44) it's Cotral Bus, which has some direct buses and several indirect ones, but has the worst app for live travel.
There's a train between La Storta and St Peter's in Rome.
I experimented with using a baggage transfer company for some of the stages between Camaiore and Siena (stages 27-33) in October 2022, and it was a good model, not without problems but, with some careful planning, and sufficient budget I think this would be my preferred option were I ever to do it again. However, unless you book your trip through a tour operator, I believe it may be difficult to find a transfer company north of Lucca (the first 27 stages). I used Bags Free (https://bags-free.com/francigena-luggage-transport/) from Lucca onwards, who were excellent, charge €25 per stage, and will pick up from Airbnbs (not all of them will), provided there is someone there between specified times to hand over or receive the bag (and not all Airbnb hosts can). The driver will ring ahead, though, so this gives a little more scope.
One psychological drawback to the public transport model is the need to catch the relevant bus or train; sometimes they only run a few times a day or there are big gaps (especially at lunchtime) in the timetable. Building in enough time to shower, clean my boots, do my washing, eat some dinner and get enough sleep sometimes drove the timing of the return journey to base. I found that this made me walk more briskly and to linger less than perhaps my surroundings warranted, and it would sometimes have been nicer just to take my time.
Accommodation
I did not stay in the pilgrim hostels, so I have very little information to pass on other than that gleaned from other pilgrims. I heard reports of bed bugs, and sometimes reluctance to open up early in the season. Mostly, however, people were satisfied. I would recommend the one in Vercelli (stage 9), which I have visited – so friendly that they plucked me off the street and force fed me biscuits and anything else I could have wanted, and in a lovely cool old building. And apparently the nuns in Siena are super welcoming and caring.
I used Airbnb and booking.com, and was always comfortable. I'd particularly recommend two: Agriturismo Passalacqua at Gallo halfway along the very long and grueling stage 36, with a fantastic host and amazing home-produced food and the best view of any breakfast. Eremo Gioioso, in a magical hamlet near Previdè on Stage 22 (which I did from Berceto). It is now no longer a B and B, as it was when I passed through and spent a few magical days there, but it is a special place and still pilgrim friendly.
When booking I'd consider carefully the proximity to the Via, and/or public transport stops if using my model, air conditioning if walking between May and October, and laundry facilities at or nearby.
Planning
The planning is key. It took me several months of research and planning, and involved a lot of careful logistical thinking, and even for a careful planner there were mistakes with dates, days and locations, requiring some flexibility and thinking on my feet, neither of which are necessarily comfortable for me. And this was a valuable part of the experience, not only because it increased my capacity for both, but also because sometimes the issues that cropped up led to serendipitous encounters and acts of kindness from strangers. Nevertheless, the amount of planning involved was prodigious and consuming; and the source of some irritation for those around me, I'm sure, as I (and they) lived through it.
Physical preparation
My physical preparation was also considerable, and necessary, and I probably walked at least twice, if not three times as far as the actual length of the Via Francigena between Saint Bernard and Rome in the course of the three years. Having that level of fitness at the start of each stint on the Via did enable me to enjoy the journey and to focus on the experience. Interestingly, the training took on almost greater importance than the actual walking on the Via, even though it was all aimed at being able to do the walking once in Italy. I used an app and became a bit obsessed about my speed; at one point I even had a spreadsheet, although that was thankfully short-lived.
My preparation started at least four months before I started, and focused on building both fitness and stamina. For the first month I tried to walk 10-15km, with a full pack, at least 3 times, but mostly 4 a week, increasing the distance through the month and ending the month with 4 back-to-back walks of the maximum distance. The next month I bumped up to 15-20km, the third, 18-25km and for the final month 25-30 km, ending each month with back-to-backs of the maximum distance. I then rested from walking, but did short runs and swam for two weeks before departure. During the four months I also supplemented the walking with occasional short (3km) runs and (1km) swims.
This meant I was completely physically comfortable at the end of the longer stages, and had the mental and physical stamina to keep going, and carry sufficient water in the very hot weather. Crucially, I planned in several rest days while on the Via, about one every 4 days or so, which I used for sightseeing and/or transfer from base to base. These were essential. For the longest stretch between Ivrea and Camaiore, I did not have enough rest days and believe this contributed to the foot injury which prevented me from reaching Lucca as I had planned. For the subsequent two stints I was more generous with the rest days and had no further injury problems.
In terms of terrain to prepare for, my local reservoir at Tal y Bont offered a multitude of forest tracks, with some steepish uphill sections, some short tarmac stretches and a few unsurfaced narrow footpaths. This was perfect variety and nicely mimicked the actual terrain of the Via. There is no need to subject yourself to long-distance mountain treks, as there are only a few mountain stages on the Via. Those in the Alps are rocky mountain paths, but mostly downhill, while those in the Apennines are up and down and rocky, but there are only 3 of these stages (or four, depending how you choose to break it up). If you are as fit as I was, they should be challenging but not overwhelming.
Equipment
Your boots are your best friends. Don't stint on these, and, if possible, use a proper fitting service such as Whalley Warm and Dry and then train in them for the four months suggested above. Always make cleaning them at the end of each day the one thing you always, always do.
Next is your rucksack. I used an Osprey Tempest 30 litre rucksack, with waterproof cover, which was perfect and enabled me to do a few days' walking carrying a few days' underwear and wash things, as well as a water bladder. Get the smallest and lightest pack you can possibly manage. Some stages are quite demanding enough without having to carry a massive weight on your back. I also had an airline locker size suitcase when using the public transport model.
I trained and walked with poles. They take the weight off your knees and feet and allow you to walk further and more comfortably as well as using the upper body to propel you. Fantastic for going up and down hills as well.
By the fourth stint, I had my pack and additional luggage down to the optimum. Four complete changes of t-shirt and underwear. 2 pairs boot socks, 1 shirt, 1 fleecy, two pairs of convertible trousers, sandals for the evening, a pair of running shorts and skimpy top for sleeping/modesty en route to the bathroom, airline size toiletries, small first aid kit, waterproofs, baseball cap and warm hat and gloves. My rule of thumb is; if I want to take it “just in case” it's not necessary. Ensure you have used all your clothing several times before leaving.
Essential are sun cream and jungle formula insect repellent if you are mosquito feast material. I'd also carry a really good head torch and also essential is a phone battery recharge pack like Anker. If based outside mainland Europe you'll also need an appropriate adapter for your electricals. (Remember to take enough medication and copies of your passport (carrying photo id is a legal requirement), prescriptions (may be required at Customs) and insurance emergency numbers.) I always walk with a compass, and, for women, plenty of biodegradable tissues and a few biodegradable wet wipes, for the outdoor toilet stops. If you can set up a Euro account and carry a card for it, your currency issues are immediately addressed. I used Wise. You will need a little cash for rural cafes, and farmers' markets, although most now allow contactless payment.
In terms of waterproofs, obviously Goretex. I did need mine on a few occasions, but, if you prefer, a good alternative is a small lightweight umbrella. Walking, even in Goretex, in waterproofs in warm weather rain can be very sweaty, and ultimately pointless.
Beyond that, it's your choice, but the rule is: the less the better.
Laundry
This became a bit of a necessary obsession. 4 changes of t-shirt and underwear allows for one set to walk in, one to change into at the end of the day (and to wear the next day) and a little latitude for washing and drying if needed if there's no laundry service at the end of the day. Mostly stuff will dry overnight, depending on the weather and material it's made from (so think about that too), and carrying partly-dried laundry in a pvc zip bag or dry bag or even a freezer bag, to dry overnight the next day can be done, but will increase the weight. You can also dry stuff by hanging it from your rucksack if you can secure it and the weather allows.
Many of the towns along the Via have self-service laundrettes which are cheap, have built-in detergent and are efficient – but will require a lot of coins. Not all towns have them though, Radicofani being one example. Some also have laundries which will do a quick wash and dry service in 24 hours, if you have the time. Factor this in to your planning, as well as the availability of washing machine/laundry service in self-catering/hotels.
Water
Never stint. Proper hydration keeps your muscles loose and reduces fatigue. Get used to carrying enough for the whole day, and train yourself to drink some about every 1km/15mins; this training will help you gauge how much you need for each stage. There are some stages where there is no water available along the way, but many where there is. Use a water bladder so you don't have to keep stopping. Plan your water for the day!
When to walk
Avoid July and August except in the Alps. It is too hot, the risaio is infested with mosquitos and you will be giving your body unnecessary stress (unless you come from a similar climate). Most pilgrims walk in late September and October, and those were certainly the best temperatures of my four stints. I also walked in Tuscany and Lazio in April and was lucky that there was little rain, and in 2022 hit a massive and unexpected heatwave between Ivrea and Camaiore, 35 degrees C in the shade, with no respite at night. I'd suggest mid-April to mid-May if you want to do earlier in the year. The limiting factor to this is that the St Bernard Pass will normally be deep in snow until early June. Consider doing stages 1-6 in a short stint during the warmer months, leaving you free to do the rest in spring or autumn. I did, however, meet a Danish couple who had dragged their bikes through the snow on the Pass in May...
Public Transport
Aside from the strikes and gaps in coverage, public transport in Italy is brilliant and reasonably cheap. I used the Trenitalia app, and applied, via the website, for my free foreigner's Senior Carta Freccia once I'd set up the app. This automatically registered on the app and gave me discounts when I bought tickets on the app. The app is available in English and the live chat team also speak English if you have any problems.
For buses in Tuscany and on Cotral buses I used the Tabnet app, which is only in Italian and can be tricky to set up, but is fabulous if you can do so. You just buy a ticket for your journey beforehand, and only activate it (slightly different ways to do so for Autolinee Toscane and Cotral) when you get on the bus. You then have a QR code to show any inspectors.
It's not always possible to buy tickets on the bus. If you don't want to go down the app route, most tobacconists sell bunches of bus tickets, if you can navigate the language issues in getting the right ones! These then have to be punched once you get on board.
As mentioned above, the Cotral app, while tempting, is horrendous and offers one of the worst user experiences I've ever encountered on any app or website. If you want live bus information or timetable information, use the website. The “f” numbers refer to the bus stop number, and this is such a stupid system, making it really time-consuming to identify the stop you need when planning your journey. It took me several hours of research to get comfortable with how to work with this. I expect if you are comfortable with Facebook and Twitter it might be easier, but don't use Google maps as they use data from Cotral which gives misleading information. Example: I wanted to travel from Sutri to Vetralla on a Sunday morning to complete stage 42. Using the Cotral and Google maps journey planners told me that there was only one direct bus a day, at 07.00. In fact there is no bus at 07.00, but there is a frequent bus service all day, starting at 08.30. Go figure.
Via Francigena apps and maps
The official app is fairly good, although hideously out of date in some places. Even the official website does not contain up to date information – see the daily entries for places where this occurs, notably stage 5, stage 35, stage 41 and stage 43. The guide book I used was Terre di Mezzo 2017 edition (there is a newer edition) and I also had the Terre di Mezzo app which was useful for finding the alternative route on stage 41. For my initial planning and familiarisation, I bought two road maps of Italy and drew in the Via as best I could to give me some idea of the geography. I also had 1:50,000 Global Map paper maps of the route through Tuscany and Lazio (ISBN 9 788833 033020 and 9 788833 030463 respectively). These were useful for identifying possible accommodation and transport options outside what was shown on the guide book maps and apps. They were also a back up system in case of battery failure or signal loss on the 'phone. I also had the Maps.me app and Google map app for extra navigational back up. I used all of them.
Signage along the route
Official pilgrim signs for stages 1-6, in the Aosta valley are sometimes missing at critical points, so a map is useful here. This is because it is a popular hiking area and most of the Via follows a clearly signposted hiking route. Once you hit the Piedmont the signs are plentiful, and this is pretty much the case to Rome, with a few bad patches, all of which are mentioned in my daily entries. Proceed with care, checking the app and map where there is any confusion and just taking a few steps further on to look for some kind of indication. These can be the yellow and black Sigeric pilgrim icon, red and white stripes, VF painted on stone, post or railing, a simple red arrow and the red and white stickers. You get used to picking them up – just look up, down and all around. Sometimes there is just the blue and white bicycle sticker, but be careful! The cycle route is not always the same as the footpath.
