Stage 41: Viterbo to Vetralla. In which my attempt to avoid a schlepp turns into one. Part 2.

The Signorino variant starts in Piazza del Plebiscito, just a little uphill from a Via infopoint and self-service stamp opposite the brutalist Poste.

Once gained though, it follows an Etruscan Via Cava, carved through rock, and then runs along rural asphalt before accompanying the Autostrada 675, where 6 tractors were being loaded with freshly harvested cauliflowers.  

Stage 41: Viterbo to Vetralla. In which my attempt to avoid a schlepp turns into one. Part 1.

Hoping to steal a march on the day, I queued with sleepy teens at a freezing bus stop at 7am for the Viterbo bus, and rode a bus full of completely silent youngsters.

I got off early at the Porta Romana (just inside which is a great cafè for croissants) pleased to have skipped a schlepp across the city, and set off on the clearly signed path. As I gained height on the long hill, I noticed this sign 

warning of damage to the path and directing me to the Signorino variant of the Via which does not appear on the official app, nor is mentioned anywhere on the official site. By the time I located it in an obscure part of my Via Francigena "app-aratus", I'd walked 3 km in the wrong direction, and had to circle round the southern suburbs to find the other variant, which is much shorter (16km vs 20km). The air was pretty blue, despite the growing heat of the sun, as I roundly cursed all apps

Transfer day: Montefiascone to Sutri

Waving good bye to Rob and Kate (it has been great having their company, and they certainly picked some beautiful stages for their first Via experience), I trotted up to the tourist office for a stamp, before catching a bus to Viterbo, becoming thoroughly confused in the bus station while trying to match my blue dot to anything on the ground, and luckily spotting the right bus.  

Arriving in Sutri, my home for the next five nights, before the final stay in Rome, I settled in and wandered around this ancient town, basking in the sun by the old town laundry, 

and enjoying a leisurely lunch in the nearest trattoria.

Stage 40: Montefiascone to Viterbo. Roman road and a mummy. Part 2.

On through the unprepossessing streets of the city to a city gate, and then the search for gelato culminated in a three-flavour sundae at Nono Ugo's place. Then a leisurely stroll around the main streets 

until climbing up to the Church of Santa Rosa, which was fascinating. It features the mummified remains of a thirteenth century teenager, and an exhibition of the extraordinary annual celebrations of her sainthood on 2 September, involving the transport of a 5 ton 

macchina through the streets.

My photos of the day may look romantically blurred as a result of a greasy smudge on the lens…

Stage 40: Montefiascone to Viterbo. Roman road and a mummy. Part 1.

We descended to the Roman road below Montefiascone, 

and the path today led through fields and flat terrain towards the large city of Viterbo.

As we entered the outskirts we came across the large necropolis (clean toilets on offer by the main gate), and took shelter from a shower. We were reminded of La Recoleta in Buenos Aires, lending a certain circularity to things, given that my first ever blog Wrinkliesontheroad covered visits to several of those in South America.

Stage 39: Bolsena to Montefiascone: 100km remain. Part 2.

More lovely views of the lake, before catching sight of Montefiascone. 

On the outskirts is a significant church, marking exactly 100km remaining on the Via to St Peter's in Rome.  900km down.  It felt a little emotional.

And so, ignoring an unnecessary arc as the Via approaches the town, we gained the city gate.

Stage 39: Bolsena to Montefiascone: 100km remain. Part 1.

Today being the Monday before a national holiday, although in theory a normal working day, in fact there was a limited bus service. On Saturday when no bus appeared at the end of our walk (despite being promised by the Cotral bus app), we were forced to call the taxi that we'd used a few days earlier. This morning, after waiting nearly an hour at the stop, we did the same thing. 4 minutes later, the bus appeared, 40 minutes late. We overtook it in the taxi.

At Bolsena, where the rainclouds of early morning had already dissipated, we consoled ourselves with coffee and croissants, before setting off on a mainly uphill walk which the taxi driver praised our courage in undertaking.

We were soon out onto gravel tracks, through fields and olive groves,

before hitting another spring wood, 

which we passed through for several kilometres, now catching up with, now being passed by an enthusiastic group of Italian walkers.