The second was the tranquility of the little hamlet of Chez Henry, further down, its chalets and vegetable plots set among apple and pear orchards.
As I descended further towards Aosta, the mountains grew in size, yet somehow the more sky they filled, the less breathtaking they became, until they were just a dark background glimpsed between buildings.
With a lot of the Via running along the main road as it approaches Aosta, the final few kilometres were less pleasant and interesting, but there was a pretty church frontage,
And I did notice a stuffed toy parrot on a gate as I descended a long, narrow street of well-to-do houses leading into the centre of town. This was the first time I'd been in the medieval centre.
The modern (as in not medieval) cathedral in Aosta laid on a friendly bishop waving to me from the rooftop.
You can get a stamp for the credential at the back of the cathedral; just ask at the "treasures" desk.
Keep going, wrinkly tourist.
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