A slight cheat on the start to the walk, by walking for a few minutes from the train station (not mentioned in the guide, unhelpfully, as it would have saved a circuitous bus journey the previous day) to intersect with the route outside town. Fuelled by a coffee at the welcoming Bar Fuoco conveniently near both the station and the Via, it was up the first of the day's several climbs, mendaciously described in the guide as "not arduous".
The route passes under vines and alongside topie,
with some very exciting WG,
until Carema, where I met a father and young son whose ability to ignore the very clear signage on the route, now that it has reached the Piedmont, matched Wrinkli's, and led to an additional 100m of ascent.
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