Stage 12: Mortara to Garlasco. Poppies and the search for a stamp. (Part 1)

An early start took me on the train to Mortara and well on my way by 8.30, while there was still a light chill in the air. Despite the official app promising no shade and nowhere to refill before Tromello, there were plenty of parts of today's path which were well-shaded, 

and very welcome, and there is a lively bar next to the Via in tiny Remondó.

I managed, by taking a short cut, to miss the stamp in Mortara, and had no luck in either Tromello or Garlasco. In Tromello both churches were closed to pilgrims and in Garlasco, while the church was open, there was no sign of anyone or even a self-service stamp.

However, I was enchanted by the countryside, with an abundance of poppies, 

the drifting poplar fluff Turning the fields white

and some deep and fast-flowing channels.

if getting out again hadn't looked too challenging, I'd have been tempted to dip.