The Orcia valley is clearly the place where huge delta-wing bombers practice flying in circles; the last few days have been punctuated with screaming, thundering jets, a noisy counterpoint to glorious larksong.
There is no working fountain at Podere San Giorgio, although there's a pilgrim oasis. The next working fountain is halfway up the SP478 climb.
After San Giorgio, where I was joined by my first cuckoo of the year, and successive chums, it's uphill all the way to Radicofani, along the old road,
until finally a climb on tarmac brings you into the sweet, and distinctly alpine breath of the village.
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