past houses surrounded by olive orchards, past hazelnut plantations (increasingly common in this area)
Then more steep up and down at forced march pace to the Via Cassia in Vetralla, to catch the last direct bus to Sutri of the day. Tabnet wouldn't let me buy a ticket online, but luckily, Kate and Rob had left me a handful of paper bus tickets, which saved the day.
A challenging day for me at the start, I nearly threw in the towel, but a pep-talk from home saw me through, and it turned out to be a lovely walk, although still 20k in the end, with no schlepp avoidance.
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