Saturday 29 April 2023

Stage 43: Sutri to Campagnano di Roma. Nuts, whole hazelnuts, as far as the eye can see. Part 3.

So, when I arrived at the crossing of the SP 16/B, and was offered a choice of Francigenas, one to Monte Gelato 11.6km on more dirt track (on the official app), and one on the anello di Compagnano of 9km, through woodland (not mentioned at all anywhere but with clear official signage), I chose the latter, and was glad I had.

It follows the original Cassia, and the ancient paving is clearly visible in places. 
Someone has lavishly marked the early stages on a very narrow and sometimes indistinct path with generous swathes of red and white ribbon, 
although how long they'll last, who knows. Nevertheless, they are very useful in giving confidence to the suspicious pilgrim, who has learnt that not all Via markings can be trusted.  I saw evidence of porcupine.
And the flowers! They were so bright and varied, I've made you a a separate album .

I didn't get to see Ice Cream Mountain (Monte Gelato), and even the inevitable long schlepp up to Compagnano in spits and spots of rain was worth it. Everything was nicely iced, after a search for some kind of stamp, by the lovely owner of Cafe Vizi e Virtù, just inside the Porta Romana at the southern end of the main street, providing not only a stamp but also a donation. (Which you can too, of course.)

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Pilgrim Passport stamps on the Italian Via Francigena

The pilgrim passport stamp is useful in authenticating your journey, demonstrating your validity as a pilgrim and for giving credence...